Tuesday 13 November 2012

paying lip service

so the first two posts about feet binding and neck rings for today have drawn a fair amount of reaction. once again, while it is easy (even personally) for us to judge and condemn, i am trying to think through the reasons and factors behind the various extreme treatments in order to achieve beauty or what is deemed as beautiful. it is also my prayer that throughout this week, we keep an open mind and try not to stereotype what is wrong and what is right. we have to really, really try.

as we journey on, the final post for today examines another 'fashion trend', this time it is more than just lip service.

the lip plate, also known as a lip plug or lip disc, is a form of body modification. increasingly larger discs (usually circular, and made from clay or wood) are inserted into a pierced hole in either the upper or lower lip, or both, thereby stretching it. the term labret denotes all kinds of pierced-lip ornaments, including plates and plugs. in africa, a lower lip plate is usually combined with the excision of the two lower front teeth, sometimes all four. 

among the sara people and lobi a plate is also inserted into the upper lip. other tribes, such as the makonde, used to wear a plate in the upper lip only. in many older sources it is reported that the plate's size is a sign of social or economical importance in some tribes. however, because of natural mechanical attributes of human skin, it seems that the plate's size often just depends on the stage of stretching of the lip and the wishes of the wearer.

image from youtube

among the surma and mursi people of the lower omo river valley in ethiopia, about six to twelve months before marriage the woman's lip is pierced by her mother or one of her kinswomen, usually at around the age of fifteen to eighteen. the initial piercing is done as an incision of the lower lip of one to two cm length and a simple wooden peg is inserted. after the wound has healed, which usually takes between two and three weeks, the peg is replaced with a slightly bigger one. at a diameter of about four centimetres, the first lip plate made of clay is inserted. every woman crafts her plate by herself and takes pride in including some ornamentation. the final diameter ranges from about eight centimetres to over twenty centimetres. 

shauna latosky, building from observations and conversations during field research among the mursi in 2004, discusses in detail why most mursi women adorn themselves with lip plates and concludes with a narrative that reveals the value of the lip plate within a discourse of female strength and self-esteem. these days, it appears that mursi girls of age thirteen to eighteen decide for themselves whether to wear a lip plate or not. the lip plates worn by mursi and surma women have been instrumental in making them a popular tourist attraction in recent years, with mixed consequences for these tribes.


in the pacific northwest of north america, among the haida, tsimshian and tlingit, lip plates used to symbolise social maturity by indicating a girl's eligibility to be a wife. the installation of a girl's first plate was celebrated with a sumptuous feast.

fash'on... BAM!

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