Showing posts with label China. Show all posts
Showing posts with label China. Show all posts

Tuesday, 13 November 2012

ties that bind

foot binding is the custom of binding the feet of young girls painfully tight to prevent further growth. the practice possibly originated among upperclass court dancers in the early song dynasty but spread and eventually became common among all but the lowest of classes. even today in china, there are families with 'lotus foot ancestry'. 

the process was started before the arch of the foot had a chance to develop fully, usually between the ages of two and five. binding usually started during the winter months since the feet were more likely to be numb and therefore the pain would not be as extreme.

first, each foot would be soaked in a warm mixture of herbs and animal blood; this was intended to soften the foot and aid the binding. then, the toenails were cut back as far as possible to prevent in-growth and subsequent infections, since the toes were to be pressed tightly into the sole of the foot. cotton bandages, 3 m long and 5 cm wide (10 ft by 2 in), were prepared by soaking them in the blood and herb mixture. to enable the size of the feet to be reduced, the toes on each foot were curled under, then pressed with great force downwards and squeezed into the sole of the foot until the toes broke.
the broken toes were held tightly against the sole of the foot while the foot was then drawn down straight with the leg and the arch forcibly broken. the bandages were repeatedly wound in a figure-eight movement, starting at the inside of the foot at the instep, then carried over the toes, under the foot, and around the heel, the freshly broken toes being pressed tightly into the sole of the foot. at each pass around the foot, the binding cloth was tightened, pulling the ball of the foot and the heel together, causing the broken foot to fold at the arch, and pressing the toes underneath.

the girl's broken feet required a great deal of care and attention and they would be unbound regularly. each time the feet were unbound, they were washed, the toes carefully checked for injury, and the nails carefully and meticulously trimmed. when unbound, the broken feet were also kneaded to soften them and make the joints and broken bones more flexible, and were soaked in a concoction that caused any necrotic flesh to fall off. immediately after this pedicure, the girl's broken toes were folded back under and the feet were rebound. the bindings were pulled ever tighter each time. this unbinding and rebinding ritual was repeated as often as possible (for the rich at least once daily, for poor peasants two or three times a week), with fresh bindings. 

the most common problem with bound feet was infection. despite the amount of care taken in regularly trimming the toenails, they would often in-grow, becoming infected and causing injuries to the toes. sometimes for this reason the girl's toenails would be peeled back and removed altogether. the tightness of the binding meant that the circulation in the feet was faulty and the circulation to the toes was almost cut off, so any injuries to the toes were unlikely to heal and were likely to gradually worsen and lead to infected toes and rotting flesh.

effects of feet-binding

if the infection in the feet and toes entered the bones, it could cause them to soften, which could result in toes dropping off; although, this was seen as a benefit because the feet could then be bound even more tightly. girls whose toes were more fleshy would sometimes have shards of glass or pieces of broken tiles inserted within the binding next to her feet and between her toes to cause injury and introduce infection deliberately. disease inevitably followed infection, meaning that death from septic shock could result from foot-binding, but a surviving girl was more at risk for medical problems as she grew older.

at the beginning of the binding, many of the foot bones would remain broken, often for years. however, as the girl grew older, the bones would begin to heal. even after the foot bones had healed, they were prone to re-breaking repeatedly, especially when the girl was in her teenage years and her feet were still soft. Older women were more likely to break hips and other bones in falls, since they could not balance securely on their feet, and were less able to rise to their feet from a sitting position.

however, bound feet were once considered intensely erotic in chinese culture and a woman with perfect lotus feet was likely to make a more prestigious marriage. qing dynasty sex manuals listed forty-eight different ways of playing with women's bound feet. some men preferred never to see a woman's bound feet, so they were always concealed within tiny 'lotus shoes' and wrappings. 



for men, the primary erotic effect was a function of the lotus gait, the tiny steps and swaying walk of a woman whose feet had been bound. the fact that the bound foot was concealed from men's eyes was sexually appealing. on the other hand, an uncovered foot would also give off a foul odor, as various saprobic micro-organisms would colonize the unwashable folds. bound feet rendered women dependent on their families, particularly their men, and became an alluring symbol of chastity and male ownership, since a woman was largely restricted to her home and could not venture far without an escort or the help of watchful servants.

brings a whole new meaning to the notion of 'ties that bind', doesn't it?

fash'on... BAM!

Thursday, 1 November 2012

dragon fashion

a dragon is a legendary creature, typically with serpentine or reptilian traits, that features in the myths of many cultures. there are two distinct cultural traditions of dragons: the european dragon, derived from european folk traditions and ultimately related to greek and middle eastern mythologies and the chinese dragon, with counterparts in japan, korea and other east asian countries.

Fantasy dragon from fanpop

although dragons occur in many legends around the world, different cultures have varying stories about monsters that have been grouped together under the dragon label. Some dragons are said to breathe fire or to be poisonous. they are commonly portrayed as serpentine or reptilian, hatching from eggs and possessing typically scaly or feathered bodies. they are sometimes portrayed as hoarding treasure. european dragons are more often winged, while chinese dragons resemble large snakes. dragons can have a variable number of legs: none, two, four, or more when it comes to early european literature.

dragons are often held to have major spiritual significance in various religions and cultures around the world. in many asian cultures dragons were, and in some cultures still are, revered as representative of the primal forces of nature, religion and the universe. they are associated with wisdom - often said to be wiser than human - and longevity. they are commonly said to possess some form of magic or other supernatural power, and are often associated with wells, rain, and rivers. in some cultures, they are also said to be capable of human speech. in some traditions dragons are said to have taught humans to talk.

the biggest question is: why a sudden departure from the animal talk to a mythical creature? i guess the answer is in the dichotomy of the dragon. in one culture, it is respected whilst in another, it is feared. this is probably a parallel of my take of the usage of animals in fashion. i am in-between. would i like to pick a side? i do but each time i choose a side, i think of the valid arguments of the other side so i guess i have to stay put in the middle for a little longer. 

since it's going to be a while before i finally decide, here's how the dragon has been infused into the fashion world.

dragon brooch
Versace Year of the Dragon handbag
Dragon fashion: single ear cuff

fash'on... BAM!

Tuesday, 30 October 2012

furry's fur

arguments about whether it is right or wrong to use pet dye abound, but the real issue is your pet's wellbeing. colourful pets are now news around the world: an escaped pink house cat is found wandering through a neighborhood in england; pets in china are sporting exotic panda or tiger pelts; colorful poodles are parading up and down hollywood boulevard.


Panda Dog
Alessandra Ambrosio with her pet pooch

without a doubt, the pet dye fad is flourishing - but is it really okay to dye your pet? is morally right or wrong to dye a pet? some pet owners feel that animals should be appreciated for their natural beauty or that people do not have the right to change a pet's appearance. others see nothing wrong with changing the color of a pet's coat. whatever your stance may be, here are some notes to take about dyeing furry's fur.

Pika-Mew

safety first: will your pet be harmed if you color his / her coat? the answer is... possibly. it is possible for your pet to be physically harmed from exposure to pet dyes and the dyeing process can be stressful for your pet. owners who wish to dye their pets need to consider that a pet's coat covers the entire body - it isn't the same as dyeing just the hair on your own head. any ingredients in the pet dye will be absorbed by the skin and two major issues are associated with the use of pet dye.

image from dogguide

the first issue is that pet dyes are relatively new. no long-term studies have been performed to determine if pet dyes are really safe for pets - especially if the animal is repeatedly exposed. secondly, pets can develop an allergic reaction to dyes. even mild food-colouring-based dyes can cause an allergic reaction, particularly in cats that will lick and ingest the dye while they groom. some pets should never be dyed. exotic pets including gerbils, hamsters, guinea pigs and chinchillas can develop serious health issues, ranging from respiratory infections to pneumonia, if they are dyed. pets that are difficult to bathe or who have any existing health problems should never be dyed either.

the Skele-Cat

with these considerations in mind, if you still want to dye your dog or cat's coat, it is best to use the services of a pet groomer who has experience using non-toxic pet dyes. always start out small; never dye your pet's entire coat on the first try, until you know how your pet's skin will react. if you choose to dye your pet at home, always purchase the dye from a groomer who offers dye services for pets. never use human hair colourants on pets. the chemicals in these products are extremely hazardous and may even be lethal. avoid using homemade dye recipes you may find on the internet as well; they may contain ingredients that are harmful to your pet.

Teenage Mutant Ninja Doodle

whether you choose to dye your pet at home or at the groomer's, take note of your pet's response to the process. never attempt to dye your pet's coat again if your pet becomes stressed from an application or if your pet experiences an allergic reaction such as itchy or irritated skin.If your pet develops any serious reactions to dye such as nausea, loss of appetite, vomiting or diarrhea - see a veterinarian immediately. last but not least, until more research has been performed on the long term effects of dyes on pets, keep the applications to a minimum.

fash'on... BAM!

Saturday, 27 October 2012

the best and the worst: week 06

and so, we sailed to the end of the sixth week of blogging (the first week of writing was purely experimental). for the entire week, my focus was on the history of fashion: looking at different periods, eras and movements. i have learnt of many of the periods in school from the angle of the literature that was written hence putting the various posts together was somewhat a stroll down memory lane. the struggle, though, was trying to find a balance between keeping the posts reader-friendly whilst being informative. putting a hundred years of fashion history into a few paragraphs was no easy feat but i'm pleased that (after much reading, cutting, copying and pasting) i did it anyway. thus i hope that you enjoyed this little learning journey that i 'forced' everyone to participate in.

without further ado, let's reveal the best of the week!


yay for china! in researching for this post, i was taken aback to learn that the qipao or cheongsam was not the first outfit of the chinese. there was even an earlier post devoted to it. i have always been brought up thinking that the traditional outfit for the chinese was the slim fitting dress with the mandarin collar and the cloth buttons. whilst putting together this post, it was truly a lesson in my own culture and heritage. i haven't gotten round to asking my chinese friends but i am certain that many of them will be as surprised as me that the hanfu is the true traditional outfit. 

and the post that is the worst of the week...


i think the goths took the bottom of the pile this week for a couple of reasons. firstly, it was the last article to be released in the week so there is always a huge risk that there is insufficient lapse in time for it to climb the charts. it is evident from the numbers this week that time was against the post. next, here in singapore, it's a public holiday (and thus a long weekend) which naturally translates into people not at work or at home. i can't expect everyone to stay home just to read my blog. i'm certain that the post will gain readership in the days to come but as of the weekly tally, it's the worst post of the week.

i don't think it's a bland post. it's just the bad timing.

before i wrap up this post, i would also like to make special mention of the post that is currently dominating the readership charts.


this was a post i did a few weeks back on the olsen twins and this entire week, it shot up to number one and has been gaining very strong daily readership. if you are one of those who first visited my blog because of this post, i sincerely thank you for your support and i hope that you will visit this blog regularly as i bring you more diverse features. 

but if you have yet to read the post, do click on the link because i added a liner of update on the sisters. they have been awarded with something pretty special so do hop over to the post to find out what it is.

finally, it's been a good week here on The Online Edition in terms of the new knowledge that i gained and the boost in readership.

fash'on... BAM!

Tuesday, 23 October 2012

the ancients: china

so we've featured greece, rome and egypt in our ancient fashion so far but no journey will be complete if a discussion on china is not done. the recorded history of china begins with the xia dynasty and till this day, there are arguments if it even existed. however there are a couple of significant contributions that china made to the fashion industry of the ancients. their primary role would be the textile trade or the silk road.


the exchange of luxury textiles was predominant on the silk road, a series of ancient trade and cultural transmission routes that were central to cultural interaction through regions of the asian continent connecting east and west by linking traders, merchants, pilgrims, monks, soldiers, nomads and urban dwellers from china to the mediterranean sea during various periods of time. trade on the silk road was a significant factor in the development of the great civilizations of china, egypt, mesopotamia, persia, the indian subcontinent and rome. it also help to lay the foundations for the modern world.

silkworm spinning its cocoon


the earliest evidence of silk production in china was found at the sites of yangshao culture in xia, shanxi, where a cocoon of bombyx mori, the domesticated silkworm, cut in half by a sharp knife is dated between 5000 and 3000 bc.

image from century china

under the shang dynasty, han chinese clothing or hanfu consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called shang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reached the knees. clothing of the elite was made of silk in vivid primary colours.

Hanfu movement

the concept of hanfu is distinguished from the broader concept of traditional chinese clothing. this excludes the main changes and innovations in the dress of the han chinese people since 1644, the founding of the qing dynasty, on the basis that such changes were imposed by force or adopted through cultural influence from the ruling manchu ethinicity. thus, the qipao, while widely regarded as an example of traditional chinese clothing, is not an example of hanfu since it derives from a manchu clothing style. these days, the only significant population segment which wear hanfu regularly on a day-to-day basis are religious priests and monks.

fash'on... BAM!