let's take stock of socks!

besides underwear, another piece of garment that is strangely intimate to the body are socks and interestingly, not many people like talking about socks. yet on google, a search on male underwear gives you 22.5 million results but type in socks and you'll garner 43.5 million results. this only means that we are writing a lot on socks and not talking about it enough in our daily conversations.

socks are an interesting piece of clothing; we pay so little attention to them and yet they’re central to our overall comfort in several ways: socks protect our feet from abrasion, wick away our perspiration, and keep our dew beaters snug in our shoes. they’re also a small detail that can either pull your outfit together or serve as an unwelcome distraction.

first, the rules:

1) your socks should match one another and not have holes or visible stains

now some of you are thinking this is incredibly obvious; however, for most of us, failing to heed this rule is going to lead to an embarrassing situation when we unexpectedly have to remove our shoes; instead of striking up a conversation with a potential business partner, we’ll be worried about concealing our protruding big toe.

2) your socks should match your trousers

a man cannot go wrong following this advice, as it serves to create a streamlined look with no unnecessary color contrast until the eyes meet the shoes. many men also like this rule as its rigidness leaves no room for interpretation and confusion.

however once a man has a sense of his own personal style, he should feel free to break this rule. doing so enables him to introduce into his wardrobe a wide range of patterned and perhaps even lively colored socks that conservative dressers would avoid.

3) wear knee length vs. ankle length socks

this rule is based off the belief that a gentleman should not expose his bare leg unintentionally. a bit archaic but it still holds sway nonetheless as the flash of fair hairy skin when wearing a dark suit can be distracting. 

in practice, this rule is hard to abide by as most sock manufacturers do not make socks that rise anywhere close to the knee. the extra material increases the cost of the sock by 25% or more, and most manufacturers are competing on price. 

4) your socks should match the dress level of the rest of your ensemble

if you’re wearing black-tie, then choose a quality, lightweight, knee-high sock with a sheen appearance. if you’re wearing a sport jacket and grey flannel trousers, heavy wool argyle socks work perfectly. jeans, a nice t-shirt, and leather casual footwear call for a dark sock that simply pulls the shoes and denim together. trip to the gym? here’s where you wear those white tube socks.

next, the selection of material: 

wool – the earliest yarns used in sock production were spun from wool. today wool socks are hard to find in most box stores and their price makes them a luxury for those accustomed to paying a dollar a pair. often blended with synthetic fibers to increase desirable properties such as strength and abrasion resistance, wool socks are great for hikers as they absorb moisture from the skin and release it outside the sock. in addition, wool has unmatched insulating properties and keeps feet warm in cold weather and cool in hot temperatures.

cotton – the most common sock material, cotton fiber is inexpensive and durable. when blended with lycra or other man-made fibers it can hold its shape and conform to the foot providing an excellent fit. cotton socks can be washed roughly with any type of detergent, and although its absorption and insulation properties aren’t on par with wool, its ease in maintenance and overall acceptable performance make it the choice for most.

cashmere and silk – a luxury blend suited for dress socks, a blend such as this looks at home when paired with quality dress shoes and a fine worsted wool suit. lighter than wool, they provide similar benefits with less bulk.

other fibers that are commonly blended with the above include nylon, acrylic, olefins, spandex, linen, bamboo, cashmere and mohair. the purpose of these blends is to achieve desired properties in feel, performance, durability and elasticity.

finally, the types:

athletic performance socks – athletic socks are worn to enhance a man’s physical performance. from the simple sport cotton tube sock to low-cut running socks with strong sweat wicking properties to specialty designed skiing socks meant to wick moisture and trap in heat, these socks at the least increase comfort and can in an extreme case help a snow sport enthusiast avoid frostbite.

dress socks – meant to be worn with a man’s suit or casual clothing, they come in a wide range of materials and for the most part stick to darker colors such as black, charcoal grey, medium grey, bottle green, brown, and burgundy. lighter shades such as tan work well with lighter clothing. as for patterns, the most traditional one is the classic argyle. more modern 'attention grabbing' colors and shades have been becoming more popular and are available from online men’s specialty stores.

protective socks – as bulk is not a concern here, protective socks utilize heavier weaves and higher concentrations of insulating fibers. although this may compromise on fit, performance when it comes to extremity protection is maximized. socks of this type range from wet suit footwear meant to keep the feet warm despite being wet to polartec powerstretch fleece socks meant to worn in extreme cold conditions for a solid week straight when hunting.

finally, socks aren’t the first item in our wardrobe we give thought to. however, they are an important part of a man’s clothing. understand your needs, work within your budget and be prepared for whatever life throws at your feet.

fash'on... BAM!

the ancients: china

so we've featured greece, rome and egypt in our ancient fashion so far but no journey will be complete if a discussion on china is not done. the recorded history of china begins with the xia dynasty and till this day, there are arguments if it even existed. however there are a couple of significant contributions that china made to the fashion industry of the ancients. their primary role would be the textile trade or the silk road.

the exchange of luxury textiles was predominant on the silk road, a series of ancient trade and cultural transmission routes that were central to cultural interaction through regions of the asian continent connecting east and west by linking traders, merchants, pilgrims, monks, soldiers, nomads and urban dwellers from china to the mediterranean sea during various periods of time. trade on the silk road was a significant factor in the development of the great civilizations of china, egypt, mesopotamia, persia, the indian subcontinent and rome. it also help to lay the foundations for the modern world.

silkworm spinning its cocoon

the earliest evidence of silk production in china was found at the sites of yangshao culture in xia, shanxi, where a cocoon of bombyx mori, the domesticated silkworm, cut in half by a sharp knife is dated between 5000 and 3000 bc.

image from century china

under the shang dynasty, han chinese clothing or hanfu consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called shang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reached the knees. clothing of the elite was made of silk in vivid primary colours.

Hanfu movement

the concept of hanfu is distinguished from the broader concept of traditional chinese clothing. this excludes the main changes and innovations in the dress of the han chinese people since 1644, the founding of the qing dynasty, on the basis that such changes were imposed by force or adopted through cultural influence from the ruling manchu ethinicity. thus, the qipao, while widely regarded as an example of traditional chinese clothing, is not an example of hanfu since it derives from a manchu clothing style. these days, the only significant population segment which wear hanfu regularly on a day-to-day basis are religious priests and monks.

fash'on... BAM!